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Spanish for culture and traditions

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Most of what goes wrong for a visitor is not grammar. It is arriving at eight for dinner, leaving the table after twenty minutes, or shaking hands when the other person was going in for two kisses. This page is the social machinery, with the words that go with it.

Meeting people

encantado
pleased to meet you
A woman says encantada. The most common thing said while shaking hands.
dos besos
two kisses
The usual greeting between women, and between a woman and a man. Right cheek first, and they are air kisses.
¿qué tal?
how's it going?
Softer than ¿cómo estás? and used constantly, including with strangers.
podemos tutearnos
we can use tú
The offer to drop the formal usted. The older or more senior person makes it.
Why it works this way

Greetings carry rules about closeness. Dos besos is for friends and introductions in Spain, a handshake for business, and podemos tutearnos is how someone invites you to drop the formal usted.

The shape of the day

la sobremesa
the time spent talking at the table after a meal
There is no English word for it. Leaving before it is over reads as rude.
el aperitivo
a drink and a snack before lunch
Usually late morning at the weekend.
la merienda
the afternoon snack
Around five or six, especially for children.
cenamos sobre las diez
we have dinner around ten
sobre las is a useful hedge: around, roughly.
Why it works this way

Spain has more names for parts of the day because it has more parts: the aperitivo before lunch, the sobremesa after it, the merienda in the afternoon, dinner at ten. Learn the names and the timetable explains itself.

Festivals and the calendar

la feria
the town fair
Most towns have one, usually tied to a patron saint.
mi santo
my saint's day
The feast day of the saint you are named after. Some people celebrate it as well as a birthday.
la Semana Santa
Holy Week
The week before Easter, and the biggest fixture of the Spanish year.
los Reyes Magos
the Three Kings
In Spain they bring the presents on 6 January, not Father Christmas on the 25th.
Why it works this way

Festivals are named, not described, and the names are worth knowing as words: la feria, la Semana Santa, los Reyes Magos. Mi santo is a name day, the day of the saint you are named after, still celebrated by some families.

Being a good guest

¿llevo algo?
shall I bring something?
Ask. Wine or a dessert is the safe answer.
¡qué rico!
this is delicious!
Say it early and mean it. ¡qué bueno! works too.
salud
cheers
Look at the person, not at the glass.
gracias por invitarme
thanks for having me
Said on the way out, at the door, not at the table.
Why it works this way

A guest's Spanish is short and warm: ¿llevo algo?, shall I bring something, and ¡qué rico!, how tasty. Gracias por invitarme thanks someone for the invitation itself, which is what Spanish speakers say on leaving.

Three things worth knowing

Two kisses, and who does them

Right cheek first, then left, and they are cheek to cheek rather than lip to skin. Women greet nearly everyone this way. Two men usually shake hands unless they are family or close friends. If you are not sure, hold still for half a second and follow what the other person starts: nobody minds the hesitation, and everybody notices a dodge.

The meal does not end when the food does

La sobremesa can run longer than the meal, and it is the part where the conversation actually happens. Standing up to leave as the plates go is the single most common way a visitor seems cold. If you have to go, say tengo que irme, lo siento, and give it a minute.

Not every custom is Spanish

Reyes Magos, Semana Santa processions and la sobremesa vary enormously across Latin America, and some of them are barely a thing. This page leans Spanish. Ask rather than assume: ¿aquí cómo se hace? is a question people enjoy answering.

Most of what goes wrong on a first trip to Spain is not grammar. It is arriving at eight for dinner, or a handshake when they went in for two kisses.

Two kisses, dinner at ten, and the sobremesa →

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